F650 Break-in FAQ

by Sean #807, Trevor George.
compiled &edited by Kristian #562
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.
Last Updated: 16 July 2006, by Winter #1935

• Break-In
• Alternative Break-In Method
• Another Method

You may also like to read the Riding Tips FAQ

What the manual attempts to get you to do, but doesn't tell you why, is to limit the amount of heat applied to the various reciprocating/rotating components for any long period of time.

You have two opposite functions to perform at break-in:

1. Apply enough pressure to the piston rings (via high-load) to have them expand and match the cylinder bore (in fact, they both wear a bit and fit each other). This also applies to valve to valve-seat interfaces and all plain bearings.
2. Avoid excessive heat that would cause distortion that will prevent these parts from mating.

So how do we do this?

• Progressively take short bursts of acceleration higher and higher in the RPM range, followed by fully closed throttle deceleration.
• This accomplishes both requirements.
• The brief burst of acceleration loads the parts as required.
• The "closed throttle" deceleration relieves this pressure, and coats the moving parts with engine oil (not so much for lubrication, but to wash away the microscopic metal particles that your engine just "machined" during the acceleration phase.
• Oil is "drawn up" because, with the throttle closed, the combustion chamber is a very low pressure environment during the intake cycle as compared with the crankcase).

Understand, this is a two part process:

• The "closed throttle" part is every bit as important as the "open throttle" part. Full open throttle (2-3 seconds) followed by a completely shut throttle (3-5 second).
• Allow a few minutes between cycles for a thorough heat soak. Vary speed and gears (I usually start with second, and work my way up to fifth).
• Avoid any constant RPM.
• BMW advise not to exceed 5,000rpm for the first 600 miles.

Comments:

• BMW advise not to exceed 5,000rpm for the first 600 miles, for good reason, to prevent heat-seizures or cylinder scoring. This allows you to travel at around 75mph in top gear, throttle on - throttle off, which is fine for breaking in and doesn't require too much throttle restraint. My neighbour who is a mechanic for BMW, said if someone admitted they'd been red-lining it before 600 miles had been covered, they wouldn't be covered for any warranty claims for engine problems. Surely it's best to follow what BMW advise, after all it's only for 1,200 miles total before you can really wring its neck, if that's the way you wish to ride. Trevor George (UK)
• One of the reasons for the extended break in period is the especially hard Nikasil liners in our engines. And I have to offer a differing opinion - I think that most of us agree on a MINIMUM of 6000 miles before using synthetic. Some of us think (and some don't) it takes longer than that and recommend waiting until 10-12000 mile oil change to go to synthetic. My engine really loosened up around 7-8000, and I went to Synthetic Oil at 12k miles. I have to admit that I was surprised that the idle rpm increased by 150-200 rpm. Tthe intention is to AVOID all oils with the EC (Energy Conserving) rating - the EC additives tend to cause clutch slippage. I have to agree with the comments on the viscosity extending polymers used to make multi-grade oils - most diesel rated oils do not use such polymers because of breakdown. In cases where repeated failures of turbochargers occur, switching to a single viscosity oil rated for diesel engines will usually end such failures. It's a problem using such oils in a car in cold climates, but many large industrial and marine engines (I'm talking about +8000hp) provide for this by having oil heaters and/or separate oil pressure pumps. Todd #389
• The main idea is to exercise the engine like you would a muscle. Build up slowly and don't do the same thing for too long. Yes, you want to keep engine revs down and increase gradually, but also you want to run a variety of engine and gearbox routines. Run City traffic for half an hour then country lanes for a couple of hours, then finish with maybe 15 minutes of mixed steady and fast motorway. Repeat until you've done the miles. Running motorways at 100 kph to do the distance will shorten engine life almost as much as not running in at all. Andy Leeds UK #982
• Here is an interesting statement from Jeremy Hall, a principal engineer in Honda's engine design department. He is quoted (page 61 of the July issue of Popular Science) as stating that the stress on an engine at 9,000 rpm is double that at 8,000 rpm. Something to think about as you wind your engine to redline. Richard #230

Refer also:

• Oil analysis thread is one of many oft cussed and discussed motorcycle topics. Another is break in. Here's a site that offers answers, based on comparative analysis of the break in of two motorcycles run under differing conditions. A lot of old wives' tales are put to rest. The short version? Ride it like you stole it... Anyway, the link: http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm. Harl #380
• http://www.bmwrt.com/faq/breakin.htm

I spent hours going over a wealth of information on this site last night - maybe it's been posted before but I missed it. The site contains a procedure for breaking in an engine:

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/NewBike.html#BreakIn

It's contrary to what the manufacturers recommend, but apparently the author has been doing it his way for a long time with great success. I am interested what others think of it. BMWconfused

A friend of mine sent me this link on how to break-in the new bike. Would this void the warranty? http://www.peterverdonedesigns.com/breakin.htm. Flash Gordon

• I believe there is something in the FAQ about break in. But in general, folks with F650s seem to believe that you should wait until at least 6000 miles before switching to synthetic. By all means, feel free to change yours to synthetic whenever whoever you believe says the time is right. Be sure to let us know how it goes. Flash #412
• Man, you might as well ask what house of worship to attend this weekend. dinskeep
• I say consult your M.O.M. (Motorcycle Owners Manual) Considering the corporation is just looking for a reason to void your waranty, why give them the excuse. RevJVegas #1906