Aftermarket Handlebars FAQ

compiled & edited by Kristian #562
updates edited by PDuffy#1244
Please read the Disclaimer before attempting any work in this FAQ.

• General Questions
• Bar Risers
• Barbacks
• Generic Bars
• Magura Bars
• ProTaper Bars
• Renthal Bars
• Superbike Bars
• Handguards - Opinions
• Handguards, Bars & Heated Grips - Installation Tips. For Heated Grips Only, refer the Hot Grips Installation FAQ

General Questions

Q. What's the Width of the OEM Bars
A1. 2001 Dakar. 36" end to end. 31" with bars locked, this includes brush guards. Barry
A2. I can confirm Barry's measurement of 36" across the bars. Paul W (UK) Dakar

Q. Has anyone got the actual handlebar measurements for the OEM bars on a GS model? I did an eye ball measure and it looks like 4" rise, 30" width and about 3" sweep. It is hard to do with all the stuff on the bars so I'm hoping someone might have measured them in their naked state (the bars not the person). I'm considering new bars and think I can buy a bend that is higher than stock and avoid the need for risers. Renthal makes several 7/8" bars with more than 4" of rise. It would be nice to know what OEM was so I can just add 1" to that.
A1. I don't know the OEM bar measurements. But a fellow from another list gave some good advice once. Bring tools and a thick towel and your bike to the shop where you want to try some bars (handle bars, not the booze kind). Take off your handle bars and place them on your gas tank, using the towel as padding to not scratch anything. You can then try out all kinds of different handlebars until you find some you like.

Q. What's the Diameter of the OEM Bars
A1. After measuring it as best I can (I don't have a caliper I used waterpump pliers (channel locks) and the 'scape on my Gerber tool (I couldn't find a ruler)) it seems that the GS has 7/8" bars.
A2. If I remember correctly, they are 22m, and so the stock triple clamps will take Renthal steel bars (which are this regular size). The other option is to go for the oversized ProTaper/Magura bars (like I did). These are basically fatter around the triple clamp area to give more strength, but the normal 22mm at the ends, so you can fit controls on. But for a quick and easy change, the Renthal's are the ones.

Q. What Bar Adapters can I use.
A1. ProTaper adapter kit.
A2. I actually got a pair of O'Neil mounts that worked out well. I am sure they are very similar to the pro taper set.

Q. What about Narrower Bars.?
A1. F650 ST handlebars ? They are narrower by about 2 inches. Jean
A2. ST bars. Be careful with others if you want heated grips, most other brands are incompatible with them. David #476
A3. Try Renntech. They have a pretty wide range of bars for streetfighter type bikes that might do the trick. Can't find a website (I've been looking to wider bars on the R1100R) so I think you might have to buy streetfighter magazine or whatever you have along those lines in the US. Andy Leeds UK #982

Q. I've got long arms, can I move the Bars Forward.? Ok, so I have been issued with a set of arms longer than the normal person, and obviously longer than those of the F650 designer! When riding my arms are bent the whole time, and I find this extremely uncomfortable. The only solutions seems to loosen the handle bars, and twist them forward to get move distance between the bars and me. Has anyone out there done this?
A1. Some people do that (and if you do, you might want to rotate the mirrors/levers back) but from what I've seen most people get an aftermarket seat which moves them back a bit further on the bike. For aftermarket seat opinions have a look at the FAQ under the Dualseat Section. Kristian #562
A2. Don't go too far, I ended up being unable to use the steering lock when the bars bumped the screen. to the extent that one of the bolts popped off its captive nut, which then dropped out onto the road. Adamx, UK. GSA #1001
A3. I did exactly what you are considering. It doesn't make much difference to be honest, due to the shape of the bar, .the way they sweep back towards the ends. I considered taking about an inch off each end to reduce that 'hanging onto a sail feel', but in the end I just persevered and just got used to them. Maybe you could try some straighter bars which should help get your hands further forward. Dirk.

Q. Which ones should I get.?
A. There are a whole lot of after-market bars available. Your problem is picking the right height, bend, pull-back, width and angle to fit both the bike and your riding style and comfort. A little research and measurement will be well worth the effort. Start at a bike shop that caters to your kind of bike riding. Richard #230

Q. Can I put Bar End Weights on All Aftermarket Bars.?
A1. On my OEM bars the end weights are secured to the bars using a bolt that threads into a sold plug that is welded in (on). I've seen bar end weights made to insert and clamp into 7/8" bars. Your other choice is a Bar Snake or one of the liquid solutions. The bar ends do make a difference in the vibes you feel in the OEM bars. Others report aftermarket bars feel fine without end weights so it may be that the aluminium bars are damping the vibes some. bg 1002

Bar Risers

• BR-Generic Adapters
• BR-GenMar
• BR-ProTaper
• BR-Touratech
• BR-Wunderlich

BR-Generic Adapters

I am posting this for Ricardo Kuhn. He has been making custom sets of adapters so that riders of Beemers can have the option of running a high quality handlebar like the Pro Taper. He is highly regarded on the Advrider site with the 11xxGS crowd and posted this in query to the F650's. I thought I'd bring it over here. beemerbrandt.
From Ricardo:

I have a few request to make adaptor so you can Mount Pro-taper bars on the little BMW the F650,but I need to know how many people will be interested so I can figure out if is feasible to make a series of them to keep the cost down, I need to make at least 30 sets can you tell me if you are interested, you will not be bound to buy anything. I just like to know the quality and design will be the BEST possible and will be ready for heated grips, hand guards, throttle locks anything you need and want. the BARS them selves are already the BEST possible, and strongest bars in the market the total COST will be kind of High around $280 but will be homogenous and very well put together to give you and IDEA the cost of the bars is $105 retail, and the universal clamps (needed, because the different diameter) around $80 but they SUCK plus you need one of those Cheesy Touratech "lift" kits, to lift the bars Up another $75 dollars plus bolts another $10,,,end up being the same Price,,, plus you get ERGONOMIC ADVICE as part of their deal, to make the bike fit you PERFECT!!!! check the G-spot for the comments about the bars ,on the Big SISTER, the GS PIG I do hope this do NOT sound like SPAM thanks for the response in advance. Ricky,  http://www.motomacondo.com/

• Yes the price may seem a little steep but if you'll go over and read the thread on the thumper forum at Advrider you will see that this is a complete kit including mounts, bars, bar ends, bolts, everything needed for a direct bolt on set-up. when compared to the price of individual components this seems to be a fair price considering that it is a purpose built, and well executed, bolt on kit designed specifically for the F650. Randy, ( Newnan, GA)
• And just why is this necessary? Putting standard ProTaper, Renthal, or Magura bars on a BMW isn't rocket science. ProTaper already makes a universal fit kit which does the job nicely. Most BMW riders that I know won't need anything else but this mount which runs about $60 and bars around $70-75. If you're looking for better mounts then there are other kits such as Scott's which match up with their steering damper but nobody has done the fit of the damper to the stock F650GS/Dakar as far as I know so why bother. As far as "heated grips" go (reading from Ricardo's e-mail) this has nothing to do with the bar clamps. It has to do with the wiring and the notch at the end of the bars for the BMW heated grips. Modifying the stock ProTaper bars IMHO isn't a good idea as you sacrifice strength for a creature comfort. I did so with the Magura's and they eventually broke. Throttle lock and hand guards - same thing, this has nothing to do with a mounting kit.
  So whether they are "homogenous" or not (e.g. homogenous) I don't see this as being any better than what's currently on the market. And, no you don't need the lift kit if you don't want it - that's a personal preference and the stock Touratech lift kit is for the stock BMW bar NOT the aftermarket fatty bars like Renthal, etc. (but then again he doesn't seem to know that either). Correct me if I'm wrong on any of this stuff guys but this is all just IMHO a bunch of extraneous stuff on items which are already covered. Yes, there are those of us who do ride a lot off-road and prefer the aftermarket bars but IMHO the mounting solutions are already there. I for one wouldn't pay $250+ for bars and mounting kit - that's WAY out there. davidhpark, #711
• Have you seen Ricardo's work ? You should check it. See http://www.pbase.com/rainman/pro_taper and this Advrider Discussion. I am going with his work it is flawless, obviously money is an object but you get what you pay for. XtreemLEE#1188

BR-GenMar

• There is a company in the USA called GenMar that makes a universal riser that moves the bar up and back, but I'm not sure it would fit the GS. http://www.zianet.com/GenMar/ .James #523

BR-ProTaper

Q. I got my order in yesterday with my Touratech handlebar risers and hopped (one footed) out in the garage to see if they were going to work with the ProTaper "vortex" clamps. The clamps turned out to be drilled just "a hair" off! So I took the handlebars all the way off to see if the clamps lined up with the triple tree and again, a hair off! You guys that have made the Magura/Pro taper mod. Is this typical of the clamps? Do I just need to "modify" i.e.. :"file out" the clamps or did I get the wrong clamps all together? I have the Pro Taper "vortex" clamps from onoffroad.com. Scotty FT. W, Tx. #1078

• I think for some reason that Touratech uses 45mm hold difference while industry standard is 40mm. I had no problem with the ProTaper kit and the Magura bars at all. I don't know if I have "Vortex" clamps I have the "Universal Mounting Kit" which I think is different. So if you check the clamps with the triple clamp and their off then you have the wrong clamps perhaps. You might not though as I took a look at a photo of the Vortex clamps and they look like what I have on my bike (included in the universal mounting kit). No modifications are necessary. You need: UNIVERSAL MOUNT KIT, Part # 02-4900 $69.95, Try www.zoomcycles.com
• I've got the ProTaper Universal mounting kit, and the ProTaper Cr Mid bars. I'll hopefully have a go at mounting the things this weekend, and will let you know how it goes. Adam #906 (NC).
• Pro-Taper craziness. Up to this point I have only removed the stock bars without pulling all the controls. I am still waiting on the Magura bars from Touratech and I didn't want the strain on the cables from just "hanging loose"! The problem I am having is where the new clamp bolts to the triple tree. When I just "lay" the clamp on the triple tree the top hole does not line up! I am able to start both bolts if I do them both at the same time (with the clamp raised up OFF the triple tree) but I know when I start wrenching them "tight" something will "give" and its gonna either be the "lip" on the handlebar groove (on the triple tree) or the top hole on the clamp! So I am wondering if I should "trim" the top whole on the clamp (rotary tool) or just wrench em' and see what happens?. Also, I don't know if you are looking for risers that work with the ProTaper clamps or not but the Touratech risers for the F650 GS seem to work. I have a set and although I am having problems with the "clamps" the risers are drilled exactly like the stock triple trees so all that is needed are longer clamp bolts to allow for the risers to mount to the "trees". I ended up having to "trim" about 1mm. out of the clamp holes and the same off of the convex area that fits in the triple tree (where the stock bars mounted) but they are on! And the fit is nice! Nice bend as well! I still can't ride for a bit but at least I can play around in the garage! Scotty#1078

BR-Touratech

• Touratech bar risers. I just put them on my '99 F, and they do not interfere with the stock windscreen, but do interfere with the National Cycle windscreen. However, even with the National Cycle screen, I can turn the bars enough to use the ignition lock without hitting. As far as allowing a more comfortable position, they definitely promote a more upright stance. For me, I'm not sure this is more comfortable. I'll decide after I take a couple of all-day jaunts this coming spring. Bob#550.
• Touratech only makes 35mm risers. With ABS it stretches the upper brake line to the unacceptable level. Wunderlich makes 25mm, but they don't give you the proper bolts. You should be fine with the 35mm on the Dakar. Much more upright riding position, but that's such a personal thing. If you have hand guards, you might have a problem with the fork lock....don't really know since I have the ABS. Didn't have any problems, per se, just didn't like the way it was stretched out...thought that it might be a future problem. When we called Seattle about it, they checked with Germany and allowed as how the 35mm is really not designed for ABS, because of the length of the brake cable. Suppose we could have gotten a longer cable. Anybody know where one can be obtained that won't break the bank? Wound up using the Wunderlich 25mm and the screws from Touratech. Sharp buy, huh? Shelley798.
• I have the 35mm risers on my 2000 Dakar and love them - I'm 6' w/o the boots. Full turn and steering lock work fine on mine. I think they especially improved comfort while standing on pegs, but improved seated comfort too. Calvin #840
• Yes the Touratech risers work with stock cable. Don't got the abs stuff or the heated grips stuff so I didn't think of em! Except for those two things they fit! Scotty #1078. 01 Dakar
• Yes the Touratech risers work with stock cable. YES - except for the ABS and heated grip switches - wires are too short. Getting everything lined up and tightened up is not easy at that. BUT - the risers are great, especially for tall boys. I "stretched" mine - then had to add more wire to it after it pulled off the lug. Black tape is not a good idea for a vibrating machine. I suggest soldering the wire extensions, then taping the exposed joints. TomO #654 Arkansas '02GS
• My Dakar does not have the ABS, so I reversed the heated grip switch to the front to lessen any tension on the wire. A little more slack was easily obtained from repositioning the existing cable ties or where necessary cutting and replacing the tie. An easy fix that was well worth the effort! Mike #976 in Reno
• I just installed risers on my GS with heated grips and abs. everything fit, but just barely. The brake line from the master cylinder is about as tight as I would like. Had to rotate the bars and controls to get as much slack as I could. Good luck. MikeB#819 in Reno
• 1. 6'3", 2. Stock seat modified by Tom Simmons in a manner similar to a Corbin or Sargent for comfort. The risers just make the handlebar "feel" better for a big rider. All bikes are sized for a mythical norm. Smaller and larger than norm riders do not fit as well. The risers are a cheap and easy fix (and are removable). Anyone with minimal mechanical skills and a few tools can do it. Just add some patience in trying to get the handlebar located and tightened as everything moves around! TomO #654 Arkansas '02GS
• I'm 5'9" and have the 35mm risers on my Dakar. It was one of the first mods I did to my bike. They made a big difference in comfort to me. My back used to hurt with the stock riding position. Someone posted on here that the most comfortable position for your bars can be found by sitting stationary on your bike, closing your eyes and reaching for where you think the bars should be. Turned out the 35mm risers put them right where I needed them. On a '01 Dakar, (no ABS or heated grips) I had no trouble repositioning the cables. Just remember exactly which way the clamps came off when you do it. DH #920 SLC, UT
• Bar risers w/ ABS-Dakar. Hi all. Could not find conclusive info from search. Can 35mm risers be fitted to 02Dakar w/ABS. Can extend ABS wires to switch (I think), but do not want to mess around w/ brake line. How involved is it to replace brake line and bleed brakes? Any input would be appreciated, on board or off. Thanks, Barry in Las Vegas #1054.
• Bar risers w/ ABS-Dakar. The electrics at the handlebars are only going to be a brake switch. Bleeding an ABS bike is no worse than non-ABS. The big thing to avoid is switching the ignition on while anything is removed. If the ABS test runs at an ignition on you may get air into the ABS bits, then you'll have more hassle.  Andy Leeds UK #982.
• Bar risers w/ ABS-Dakar. I fit the Touratech bar risers to my 01GSA w/o removing any brake lines or wires, just un-did the bolts and slipped them right in. Jason #778 (St. Louis MO).
• Bar risers w/ ABS-Dakar. I have the bar raisers w/ ABS. I've run with the stock bars and with my new motocross bars. I haven't had any problems. My brakes still work fine. The cable doesn't seem overly tight nor does it seem to get too tight when I pop a wheelie. My brake line is no where near tight. Not remembering what it looked like stock I can't say how much slack I have but at full extension there is still a good amount of slack. (The whole length of its run it has gentle curves in it. Even at full fork extension.). None of my cables are tight, but I have no/few cable ties on them. PQBON
• Bar risers w/ ABS-Dakar. So, last night I went to add the TOURATECH 35mm handlebar risers to my bike. No problem getting them on, but once they were there seemed to be tiniest amount of stress being put on the front steel braided brake cable when the bars were moved all the way over to rider's right. Enough to play it safe and remove them until further notice. I'm talking about the length of cable between the master cylinder and the body of the bike, not by the forks. when the wheel is turned ALL THE WAY to the right, not something you plan to do, btw, but something that you have to be aware of, the cable is a bit tight. Any Ideas.? Chris.
• Reroute the brake line. Flash #412 (CO)
• Install a longer one. if you have a GS, replace it with a Dakar line. I replaced my classic line with Galfer SST line for a GS, which is about 1.5 inches longer, exactly what I need with the 35mm risers. Check out www.galferusa.com click on brake lines, then select BMW for a part number listing. Mark #403.
• If you have to lengthen the brake line, the ABS won't notice or care. The ABS loop is from the caliper to the ABS modulator and back. Above the modulator it is conventional. Don't go too long though, even braided hoses bulge with half a hundred bar in there. Andy Leeds UK. #982.
• Good choice. I have a set of 35mm on my 01 Dakar and they made a huge difference in comfort to me. My lower back used to ache from the hunched position the stock bar height kept me at (and I'm only 5'9"). Now I have no problems. One of our Chain Gang members (David 476?) passed along a tip to determine the ideal handlebar position: sit on your bike, close your eyes, and reach out to where you think the handlebars SHOULD be (did I mention you should be stationary while doing this?);-). That is the most comfortable position for you. Using the 35mm risers and adjusting using that method made all the difference for me. I should say however, the way my bars are adjusted when I turn left (to the stops), the bar does just touch the windscreen. This has never been an issue while riding for me though. YMMV. BTW I have the Wunderlich risers (bolts I got were fine). Although the fit finish and installation are typical Wunderlich quality, I would not recommend them based on their high price. No doubt the Touratech risers are every bit as good. Unfortunately, I ordered mine before I saw the Touratechs. Good Luck. DH #920.

• Q. Just got the risers I ordered and before I opened the package I noticed that one hole on each riser was machined very close to the center. Upon opening the package, I found that the bolts don't fit properly. They protrude about 2-3mm into the center channel where the handlebars should be. Now can anyone tell me whether this is the way it should be, or, as I suspect, have the risers been machined wrongly? I can't get an answer from Touratech-USA aka Cycoactive.
  A. Informationen, Für alles informationen: Das 35mm Lenkererhöhungen für die F650GS/F650Dakar (#01-040-0269-0) sein ASYMMETRISCH UND Lenkererhöhungen bringen folgende Vorteile:
  - Aufrechtes, entspanntes Sitzen
  - Entlastung der Schultern und der Handgelenke
  - bessere Motorradkontrolle
  - Material: Aluminium eloxiert
  - beim Sporteinsatz:
  - wesentlich aufrechteres Stehen
  - ermüdungsfreieres Fahren im Stehen
  - bei allen Typen sind passende Schrauben im Lieferumfang enthalten
  - Die Lenkererhöhungen werden nur mit einer Materialbeschreibung, aber nicht mit einem. TÜV-Gutachten geliefert
  
  Modified Babel Fish Translation, In English:
  
  For information: The 35mm bar risers for the F650GS/F650Dakar (# 01-040-0269-0) are ASYMMETRICAL.
  Bar Risers have the following advantages: upright, relaxed sitting position, relaxes the shoulders and the wrists, allows better motorcycle control.
  Material: Anodized Aluminum for the sports use. Substantially more upright standing -  fatigue-free driving when standing - All necessary screws included.
  The Bar Risers are supplied only with a description of the materials, but not with a TÜV appraisal.
  
  So basically, the 650 GS handlebar clamps have the holes drilled asymmetrically: they only fit one way (front to back). The holes that appear very close to the handlebar go in the rear.
  
  (Note if you have a BMW 1150GS  adventure the holes have to be drilled out the holes don't match up close enough to the handlebar mount to make it work. That's 'cause the ones listed in Touratech's catalog for the Adventure are wrong. They say "Distance between hole centres 40mm" and I was thinking about buying some, so I wanted to verify their measurements. Sure enough, it wouldn't have worked on mine, an '01 Adventure R, so I haven't ordered 'em. The measurement's at home and I can't recall the exact difference, but it was off by a few millimetres.

• I just put on a pair of 35mm handlebar risers on my 1995 F650 that I got from Wunderlich (they also have 25mm). There was no problems installing them with the original cables. I also contacted Touratech, but they said that they don't have any handlebar risers that fit the classic F650. Anyway they work great and it feels much better know both sitting and standing. I am 187 cm tall. (Spakur #1117) Regards, Spakur #1117, Icelander in Malmö, Sweden, 1995 Classic Red F650 with 65.000+ KM

• Touratech is wrong. they do have them. I bought them. They also have 25 and 35mm varieties. they are called "universal", not specifically for the f650, but work perfectly. and they only cost about $40. however, I found that there was too much stress on my aftermarket SST brakeline for my taste, and replaced it with a SST brakeline for the GS, which is about 2 inches longer, and a perfect match for the risers. F650, Bay Area, California. mark #403
   

BR-Wunderlich

• I have a set of 35mm on my 01 Dakar and they made a huge difference in comfort to me. My lower back used to ache from the hunched position the stock bar height kept me at (and I'm only 5'9"). Now I have no problems. One of our Chain Gang members (David 476?) passed along a tip to determine the ideal handlebar position: sit on your bike, close your eyes, and reach out to where you think the handlebars SHOULD be (did I mention you should be stationary while doing this?);-). That is the most comfortable position for you. Using the 35mm risers and adjusting using that method made all the difference for me. I should say however, the way my bars are adjusted when I turn left (to the stops), the bar does just touch the windscreen. This has never been an issue while riding for me though. YMMV. BTW I have the Wunderlich risers (bolts I got were fine). Although the fit finish and installation are typical Wunderlich quality, I would not recommend them based on their high price. No doubt the Touratech risers are every bit as good. Unfortunately, I ordered mine before I saw the Touratechs. Good Luck. DH #920

Barbacks

Q. Anyone know where I can find Barbacks for my 2002 F650GSA? I have found plenty of bar risers, but I am very short of arm, and don't need the handlebars higher, just back a little bit. Your help is greatly appreciated. I found some Barbacks on the GEN MAR website, but whether they will work on my bike I'm not sure. Waiting to hear back from them. They want $109 for them. GOOD GRIEF. They must be gold-plated or something!! Grits

• It may be cheaper to get a different set of handlebars, but LOTS of variables...like cable & wire lengths too short (this would apply to bar-backs as well), swapping heated grips (if any), changed windshield clearance, etc. Likely more info in the FAQs under risers. If you're anywhere near a BMW swap meet (or maybe ANY swap meet, except HD, which has 1" bars), you can likely find a set of used Barbacks. I've got a couple different pairs (not for sale), and they come in a BUNCH of different styles, finishes and materials. Pay most attention to how they mount. The biggest concern should be if the mounting bolts on the top handlebar clamp are the same distance apart as the threaded holes in the Barbacks. The small difference between 22mm and 7/8" are likely not significant. Also be concerned as to tankbag interference (if you use one). I think that the "up" vs. "back" is going to vary from bike to bike depending on the rake of the fork (angle of OEM handlebar clamps). Marty #436.

• I too needed to bring the bars back so that I sat more upright due to recent major spinal surgery. I purchased the Touratech 35mm bar risers which also allowed me to twist the bars back. I haven't done any actual measurements but guess that the bars are approx. 15mm higher and 20mm further back. TT bar risers were very simple to fit. But you will also need to adjust each handshield and switch gear. Again simple. Just a screw to loosen and tighten. The other thing to watch is the switch gear for the heated grips (and the unused switch). This switch panel needs to be removed and turned around so that you can use the heated grips switch. I becomes obscured when you twist the bars back so instead hide the unused switch under the crossbar. I have been very satisfied with this modification. Tink

• I ordered the Gen Mar Barbacks, which are spaced 1 3/8 and that is what I measured. However, when we took off the handlebar cap, and you look at it, they are offset a bit, which meant the holes don't quite line up. So...we are having the Barbacks machined out a bit. Also, hubby says we will have to pretty much strip the bike, unbundle the wires, so that we can get more slack. Grits

• FYI the Touratech bar risers didn't require any modifications to the wiring or brake lines. As a suggestion and before stripping, check to make sure that the removal or relocation of a couple of zip ties would be sufficient. There is one under the ignition switch that if loosened off would appear to offer some flexibility to the wiring harness. Tink

Generic

• For a long time I wanted to try a different set of bars on my 1999 F650. Well a little ice on the road last week speed up the decision for me. I installed a set of plain steel motocross handlebars from my local dirt bike shop. After all the measuring I choose the Honda Cr Low Bend. This is a common size found everywhere. I just trimmed them down to 30 inches wide and bolted them on. I now have a handle bar that is about 3/4 of an inch taller and has less pull back. They feel great! Much better on and off road. Craig 325.
• When I had the dealer install factory heated grips on my GS in July, when I picked it up, they gave me the bars that came with the bike. Only explanation was "to add heated grips to a stock GS they needed to change the bars". Never did find out why; didn't care as long as there was n/c. Some help I am and I still have them, somewhere, and no guys they won't fit on a '97!!
• With the bars raised, you will be more like a sail on the freeway and will have to hold yourself against an 80 mph wind. This can become very tiring (even with a windshield) and will cause back pain in the shoulders in short order. Lower bars (within reason) are always better at high speeds, where the wind pressure can hold your body up and relieve the pressure on your wrists, that you would have at low speeds, with low bars. The ideal situation would be to have low bars for high speed riding and high bars for low speed riding (where wind pressure is not a problem, but proper control of the bike is). Richard #230, Pacifica, CA
• Same observations as Richard's. I have a ST with smaller handlebars than the F's and that makes it more difficult to seat right in the middle of the Corbin Seat. It's not so much of an improvement for short rides but it makes long hauls far better. Jean
• Handlebar Replacement. I wish to replace my handlebars with something same width, but possibly higher. Also need to get rid of the support bar in the centre to be able to twist the bars forward. Keeping in mind that once converted to ZAR most 3rd party items are extremely expensive, so I would like to stay with normal manufacturer parts, even if different manufacturer.  I noticed in an earlier post about replacing with TDM bars, any comments on that?
• You might want to check out www.flandershandlebars.com. Look in the import 7/8 category for all kinds of bends that might work for you. They have a BMW section, but I think it is mostly for older airheads. Any 7/8" bar will fit. You might check out Flanders.com or Dennis Kirk. K&N also makes a selection of street style bars. Also, Gen Mar makes a universal bar riser that will fit. While you may want a lower bar, the riser may help with clearance problems resulting in a net lower bar that doesn't rub. gar - 97F/#673.

Magura - Direct Magura Handlebar Link

• I actually bent my stock bars in the whoops. Best thing I ever did!! I got a pair pf Magura SX bars, the same ones used on the Schalber Rallye bike. These bars are oversized so I had to get a pair of adapter clamps. They also acted as risers, and to tell you the truth, it was the bet thing I have done to the bike. I like to ride off road and the position is much better for standing. I do also like riding with them on the road at this height. I was concerned about the height at first but I think now after some time this is the way to go. They are much stronger than the stock bars. I know you said you wanted lower bars, but wanted to offer my experience. My bike is a 97 F. They are the stock bars that KTM uses on some of their bikes and also the Touratech BMW has them. I bought them from motorcycle acc. warehouse I think. Do a search for Magura Handlebars and you will find which vendor sells them, only a few. Touratech USA has them also. What you will have to do is get the adaptor clamps from "Pro Taper" or "O'Neal". I have the O'Neal version, I saw both, they are just about the exact same thing. The Magura bars are thicker at the mounting point I think 28mm vs. 22mm. I was able to get all the stock controls onto the new bars without any issues. The only thing you have to do is drill a hole on the throttle side, since there is a metal "flange" that sits into the bar so that the throttle assembly doesn't rotate. Make the marks and use a hand drill, if you have access to a drill press, even better. I used a hand drill. So far I have been very happy with the change. I think the riding position is better and much better for off road where you stand most of the time. The adapters do raise the bars up a little, but after 6 months now, I would never go back. Take a look at F650 and the pic below. I have the Black 97F in the photos and you can see the before and after. Look to spend about 100 bucks for the bars with shipping and everything, and about 25 bucks for the adapters. I got the adapters at competition accessories. Touratech also has them for more $$. As for other brands? I looked at Renthal which are also very good and a few others. There are so many bars with different bends and this and that. I went with the Magura since they are quality and if they use them on the KTM's and the Touratech Rallye bike then they must be good. See what you can find. It is possible. The only thing you may want to think about is if you have the BMW heated hand grips or a Throttlemeister. I was told that the BMW heated handgrips will not work with these bars, probably just another drilled hole or something. I do not know. Other than that, very simple. No weights at the ends and no vibes that I didn't feel with the stock bars and weights. Will never go back to stock bars. Another low tech vibe "solution". Pump the bars full of silicone (RTV) caulk. Leave room at the ends for needed hardware. Mike789
•  
• If he's looking for a wider, straighter handlebar on the Dakar then this would be more of a "supercross" or SX style setup. I've (and many other inmates) have already made this change getting rid of the easy-to-bend BMW OEM bars for Magura (my pick), Renthal, or Easton bars. You'll need a universal mounting kit (ProTaper) to put them on the bike. You can get specs from the web sites or from the fax that Magura sent to me. Magura Fax. Bikes are just collections of components. Proper setup is key to enjoyment and correct riding. You might also want to look at the Touratech footpeg relocation kit which opens up more space for shifting and otherwise (if I remember correctly) drops the footpegs down and back a bit. davidhpark, #711

ProTaper Bars

Installation Details

• ProTaper Bars on a Dakar by Andy #906

Renthal - Direct Renthal Handlebar Link

(from scx)

Opinions

• I can't wait to try my new bars, if I could just get them to cooperate everything will be just fine. I have taken pictures, but installation has been a test in patience and I'm not done yet. One thing I did discover is that replacing the grips will be near impossible because of the way the wires need to be run (not just easy on easy off), but how often do you really need to replace those? The other challenge will be in keeping the left side grip stationary (I am not going to drill holes in the new bar). Maybe adhesive or hose clamp? Any suggestions are welcome. I'm glad your install went smoothly, sounds like they look pretty good. For those of you waiting for pictures, soon, very soon. Sean-STL.
• After crashing and bending the OEM bars on Icewoman's GSA, I replaced the bars with Renthal's made for a Honda CR80. The smaller bars have a narrower clamping area, aren't real tall, and don't send the controls all the way out where longer cables may be necessary. They do take some fiddling to keep the controls from kissing the fairing, otherwise were a easy install. I fitted a pair of 7/8" Renthal's from a Honda CR80. The larger bike bars have a wider base, and move the controls farther out with possible cable length issues. If you want to run heated grips, you need a machinist to make ends for the bars to fit the wired grips, which also widen the bars. I did it, and it worked out great with factory heated grips. Moving the bars forward with straighter bars will have a problem with the controls kissing the windshield. Iceman #975.
• I've decided to upgrade my handlebars so that they can stand a bashing as well as giving an extra bit of height. I've been looking around and decided to go with the Ricky Carmichael aluminium Renthal bars (combined with a ProTaper Universal mount kit). My only one concern is the length of my cables (throttle etc.) - I see I've got some slack in them but is it going to be enough? Anyone got any experience or comments on this sort of thing? Adam (NC) #906 - 26-Jan-02
• I replaced my 01Dakar stock bars with a Renthal set. They are an ATV set with a similar high and wide bend and are the stock 7/8" diameter. They fit fine with all the cables. However, heated grips will not work without modification to the Renthal bars. Adrian#668
• I installed my Renthal bars. They are the Renthal bar for a 2001 KAWASAKI KX 125/250. The Renthal size number is 726 01 TT 01 183. To do this I had to give up my heated grips for now and I gave up my BMW wind protectors and bar ends. However, I LOVE THESE BARS! They go great with my Touratech Handlebar risers. I might get a bar snake as at highway speeds they are a little buzzy. They aren't however, more buzzy then the Touratech pegs since I run those without the rubber insulators. The only hitch with installation was I lost the nut that hold the passing high beam flash switch in place. So for now the switch is just kind of floating around. I don't have any vibration reduction gear, neither weights nor a bar snake. My brakes seem fine. I'm running the Touratech bar raisers for the stock handle bars (not the ones for the Magura's.) Cheers, PQBON
• I ended up using Renthal's with a Honda CR80 bend, with stock cables, hoses, and risers. I machined aluminum ends to copy the stock ends from the BMW heated grip bars to keep the heated grips. There's probably an easier way to do it though. The bike has had a few easy drop overs without bending the Renthal's, so no complaints from me. iceman
• I am using Renthal bars. I took out the bars weight and install Acerbis guards. The bar had major spill at 120km/h and 70km/h. Not even a bent. Was lucky coz the handguards took the impact. The hoses I ordered from Touratech Germany. The handle is great and is cheap. I been using Renthal for all my offroad bikes. So far I hardly had to replace a damaged Rental Bar except one time I crash big time when I took a table top (Jump) and there was another bike dropped in my way of landing. I broke his Rims and bent my bar. Yes the hand guards DO touch the screen but nothing to worry about (very minimum). My2nd spill on the road didn't even damage my screen except for the handguard that got grind by the road, Anyhow you don't always lock your handlebar in either direction when traveling maybe only when you push the bike around. Maybe give you an idea what I did. I removed the bar balancers, replaced the handguards, add a 35mm bar raiser from Touratech, saw away about 10mm on both levers and tilt the bar more towards the back. Advise: If you plan to order the Handguards from Touratech, do not order the F650 type but just the standard guards. coz the F650 guards comes with bar raiser, spacer for the bar end so you need not saw away the lever and it the whole package is only for ORIGINAL BMW HANDLEBAR not for aftermarket bars. scx

Q. I have plan to change stock handlebar to Renthal. Only problem is that there is numerous versions of Renthal handlebars available in the market... What Renthal handlebars you have installed ? Do you like it ? Feels better than stock one ? I am taking my Dakar to the dirt as often as possible and sometimes I drop it. How well Renthal can handle those drops ? Does it bend easily ? Do you have standard or any weights in the handlebar ? I have Touratech 35mm risers at the moment Marko, Dallas, TX (orig Finland)
A1. I have a standard Renthal bar which have the same bend as the KX 125/250... The number is: 726 01 TT 01 183. I love them! I use them with the Touratech handle bar riser. They give MUCH more leverage on the bars and I love that they are wider. Yes, I have the stock brake line. I've had a few low speed drops in the dirt, No serious bending that I've noticed. dumbass

Q. Will the factory heated grips fit those Renthal handlebars? Steve #1059
A1. Not with out cutting. You have to drill a whole in the center of the bar and on each end. I choose not to for strength reasons. It has been done. Cal BMW has done it on Renthal, Magura, and ProTaper bars for both the F650 and the R*GSs. dumbass
A2. I ended up using Renthal's with a Honda CR80 bend, with stock cables, hoses, and risers. I machined aluminum ends to copy the stock ends from the BMW heated grip bars to keep the heated grips. There's probably an easier way to do it though. The bike has had a few easy drop overs without bending the Renthal's, so no complaints from me. iceman

Q. Can you use standard hand protectors ? Do your hand protectors touch the visor ?
A1. I don't use a hand protector right now... I do plan on moving to the Touratech Rallye guard some time though... dumbass
A2. Hi Marko - I installed some ProTaper bars on my Dakar a while back - I've got a whole load of photos on my website. The handguards do touch the screen at full lock, but I only notice that if I'm pushing my bike around. Adam 906NC
A3. Check my site out. I am using Renthal bars. I took out the bars weight and install Acerbis guards. The bar had major spill at 120km/h and 70km/h. Not even a bent. Was lucky coz the handguards took the impact. The hoses I ordered from Touratech Germany. The handle is great and is cheap. I been using Rental for all my offroad bike. So far I hardly replace a damage Rental Bar except one time I crash big time when I took a table top (Jump) and there was another bike dropped in my way of landing. I broke his Rims and bent my bar. the hand guards DO touch the screen but nothing to worry about (very minimum). My 2 spill on the road didn't even damage my screen except for the handguard that got grind by the road, Anyhow you don't always lock your handlebar in either direction when traveling maybe only when you push the bike around. Maybe give you an idea what I did. I removed the bar balancers, replaced the handguards, add a 35mm bar raiser from Touratech, saw away about 10mm on both levers and tilt the bar more towards the back. Advise: If you plan to order the Handguards from Touratech, do not order the F650 type but just the standard guards. coz the F650 guards comes with bar raiser, spacer for the bar end so you need not saw away the lever and it the whole package is only for ORIGINAL BMW HANDLEBAR not for aftermarket bars. scx.

Superbike

• I like to put Superbike bars on my street bikes. I think they are sold by K&N. Richard #230

Handguards - Opinions

Acerbis Handguards

• Anyone mount the Acerbis Rallye handguards on a classic F? (I have Magura SX bars mounted) I am curious if the brake reservoir/clamp/lever assembly takes up too much space making it impossible to mount the guards? I am assuming that these are the same guards Touratech has on their site and therefore "want" to assume they will fit. The Stock Classic F guards are not doing the trick. I need something that wraps all the way around to the bar end. I do not want to mount the F650GS hand guards as I feel they are really flimsy. Mike789.
• I have the rally brush set mounted on mine. I had to remove the bar weights in order to get them to fit. Also, you need a bracket set to get the angle right. Touratech makes the bracket set. Acerbis makes the guards. And any MX shop probably sells them cheaper than Touratech. I had to grind down half of the clutch lever-"ball" for it not make contact with the side of the guard on the way in. This is not an optimal mount, and I'm going to see if I can't do some modifications to it this summer. '97ST w/ standard F handlebars. Thomas849
• I replaced my BMW guards with Acerbis rally brush guards. i think the set with deflectors was about $70 or so at road rider in San Jose, CA. The only time I've crashed was a slow low side on oil that would have taken off my clutch lever. instead, it trashed the handguard (actually, just road rash, not structural damage). I ordered a new guard, plastic only, from Acerbis for about $25. a broken lever would have meant a trailer ride home plus the cost of the new lever. So to me, the Acerbis guards were worth it. If I had to do it again, I MIGHT buy the Touratech guards, which are identical to the rally brush guards, but are longer to reach the end of the bar weights. The standard rally brush guards are mounted between the weight and the handlebars (requiring longer bolts). but before I bought the Touratech, I'd want to know how easy it is to get replacement plastic, since you cant order it directly from Acerbis. Works fine on the classic Funduro bars. The lever ends JUST touch the guards though. But not enough to cause any problems. Mark #403

• I have read in the FAQ that this handguards are installed in-between the bar weight and the grip. It seems like there is however a problem with it, and that is that the tip of the lever seems to make contact with the handguard. I guess by installing them together with my heated grips, which are about 1/2" wider it will probably be better. The only concern is off course if there is enough space to move the inner fastener outwards 1/2" or so. Anyone got these on and could check that for me? I put on a pair of Acerbis handguards on my 1995 F650 which I got from Wunderlich. I have the OEM handlebars with some cheap aftermarket heated grips (SAITO) that are 1/2" wider than the original grips. The handguards installed just fine once you started to use the BFH (big f****** hammer). (Spakur #1117)

• I have these and they fit if you put them between the bar and the end weight, or get rid of the end weight. You can't stretch them to the outside of the end weight. the inner clamp goes inside the crossbar, but right up against it, so you can't slide it outward at all. the levers JUST contact the guards. I ground down the brake lever ball-tip, and left the clutch as is. these have saved my clutch lever twice. If your grips cause the bars to be 1/2" wider, that really shouldn't be a problem. Mark 403.

BMW

• Funduro hand guards on ST. Yes, they fit. They may hit the windshield before full stop. It depends on what screen you have. The bumping can usually be minimized by rotating the bars back a little. Keith#714 Alaska.
• Funduro hand guards on ST. Yes they do fit as I have them on my 97ST. Some adjustments may have to be made to the handle bars as the guards may strike the windshield. Peder 495.
• Funduro hand guards on ST. Also look at the GS guards - will fit - not much more money. - look tons better - much stronger in a "brush against" or drop. Took the "clam shells" off of my '00 and installed the better guards. Art884.
• Over the weekend I purchased the BMW hand protectors for my GS. They were a snap to install but I'm a little concerned w/ the right hand grip. My tendency is to tighten it down so that it's snug. This causes the throttle to lock down completely so I've had to loosen it considerably to keep movement / recoil in the throttle. This causes 2 problems. 1. The right side hand protector is not as stable as the left one that is tightly fastened to the bike. 2. I'm paranoid that having the bolt anything but snug will cause it to eventually rattle loose and cause the bolt, weight, and connector to fall off the bike while riding. I remember reading a while back about some tips for securing this properly while allowing full throttle motion. Besides this problem my hands are considerably warmer on that windy stretch along 101 by 3Com. Adding the handlebar weights makes a huge difference in reducing vibration on the handlebars.
• The bar end weights and bolts are different for the heated grip bars versus the non heated grip bars. My guess is you have the wrong parts. My GS's do not have this problem. Keith#714 Alaska
• Its the same problem that owners with heated grips sometimes get - I've had it myself (throttle grip fouling on bar end weights). Solution - simply move the whole throttle cluster further down the handlebars away from bar end (slight movement will do). Paul W (UK) Dakar
• Today, I fitted the protectors to my GS, no problem took 10 minutes, no changes needed to throttle location on the handlebars....the end piece of the protectors secured at the end of my bar weights, a slightly longer Allen bolt was in the kit to make up for the extra thickness of the protector on the end of the weights. The kit part number was 71 60 7 653 855, Jack.
• I have the stock grips on my GS and although others may be stronger, I find the stock the best; obviously a perfect fit. I installed the GS guards on my classic as well. Those half clam shells were awful. Art884

Touratech

• I have Touratech hand guards installed on 1998 F650 with bar ends/cruise control and they work just fine! However you will need longer screws to attach the guards to the bar ends. Tell the dealer that when ordering and they will send longer screws. Jimmy
• Touratech supplies adds a short spacer that fits between the handguard and the clamp (on the inside) which allows the guards to be mounted further out on the bars. You may have to rotate the brake line fitting to allow the handguard to pass under it. I have the Touratech ones fitted with heated grips (which are about 10mm longer than non heated grips) and a Throttlemeister (which are 10mm - 15mm shorter than the stock weights) throttle lock. The combination just fits, heated grips and stock weights may be too long too work. Peter Jensen #233, 97ST.
• The wiring for the grips on the GS go inboard. The bar ends are closed anyway. The stock or Touratech guards just use a through bolt into a threaded piece in the bars. The other end of the Touratech guards uses a clamp you spread over the bars. No interference whatever. If you want wind breaks the stock guards are fine. Mine broke on the first fall, so I went with Touratech units instead of replacing with stock. I have ABS and heated grips. These are much stronger units. They have survived tree and bush collisions and an unplanned boulder landing. I do believe my fingers are indebted. MikeB#819.
• I now (currently) have the clamshell type handguards on my 99F650. One day while getting a little TOO close to my mail box to check the mail. (why not just get off the bike...hmm novel idea..) anyways the bar and clamshell hit and the clamshell provided little or no protection. So I ordered the Touratech handguards made by Acerbis. They seem heftier and would look to provide more protection. However, I have end weights and the handguards does not seem to extend beyond the end weight. Now do I have to remove the end weights all together or do I have to put the fastening point of the handguard between he grip and the end weight? Will this interfere with the throttle?. Gotta tell ya, I thought Touratech made their own stuff...I was a little dismayed that I saw a ACERBIS stamp on it. Not that Acerbis is bad mind you. But I did pay 112$ for the set of handguards with spoilers. That is about a 35% gross profit mark-up. Now they most likely paid around 40-60 bucks for them. So the margin is much larger. Forget the price for a moment. What good is a handguard that does not reach PAST the end weights? Nick 1085.
• Ah, I finally have the answer I've been looking for, that is, is there any difference between the Touratech handguards and the Acerbis rally brush guards (CycoActive couldn't even tell me). the only possible difference would have been that the Touratech guards reach to the end of the weights. Now that I know they don't, I'm glad I never bought the over-priced Touratech guards. Essentially, nick, you've just paid about $30 for a Touratech sticker. I think I paid about $75 for the guards and spoilers in black from a local mc shop. How much did you pay? I bought longer bolts at a metric supply house, installed a couple lock-tooth washers between the guard and the handlebar end (to keep it from twisting), and installed the weight on the outside of the guard with the plastic and lock washer sandwiched between the weight and the handlebars. I went down once on an oily turn and the guard got slammed and scraped along the asphalt (ruined). It didn't twist though and it spared my clutch lever. I ordered new plastic replacement parts directly from Acerbis, since the hardware was all fine. I still don't get why Touratech charges so much more than anyone else for stuff that they just re-sell (Acerbis stuff, camp stuff, leatherman's, etc). their own stuff, I can understand. Mark #403, Classic.

Handguards, Bars & Heated Grips- Opinions & Installation Tips

Acerbis

• Hi folks, I'm currently fighting the Acerbis Handguards trying to make them fit onto the ProTaper bars I've got installed. Basically the left one fits well, but the right one is causing me problems. The brake line is really in the way of the ProTaper fitting bits. Has anyone else succeeded in fitting the Rally handguards to PT/Magura bars? Did you have to move the brake line round a bit? I see there's a hex fitting which would probably allow me to do that, but I don't want to fiddle with the brakes unless I have to. Adam #906.
• Q. Acerbis Handguards on the Classic? How the &%$# do they go on? With the Bar end weights, there's not enough length in them to reach the handlebar beyond the controls. Without the weights there's not enough room for the levers. Any advice? NO, I didn't get the special mounting package from Tour-a-tech. I just got the stock kit from Chaparral. NewMexEd
  A. I have the rally brush guards on my classic. to mount them, first you'll need longer screws for the weights, 6mm X 75mm long. the guards will only fit between the bars and the weights, since they aren't designed specifically for bikes with weights. the clamp goes on the handlebar, just inside the crossbar, as close to the crossbar as you can get. I ended up grinding down the ball on my brake lever just a bit (about half way) so it wouldn't touch the guard. on the clutch side, there is minimal contact that doesn't cause a problem for me. A bit of extra work, compared to the BMW guards, which I had first, but worth it. I've taken two spills, one on the pavement and one off-road. both times the bike landed on the clutch side guard. the pavement get-off ground the guard so much that I ended up buying replacement plastic (which you can buy directly from Acerbis). both times down, the clutch lever was spared and I was able to continue riding. The BMW "guards" wouldn't have done so well. Mark #403.
   

BMW

Q. I'm attempting to remove the heated grips on my GS so I can put new handle bars on the bike. Is there an easy way to do this without turning my ~$500 grips into garbage?

• You need NEW bars. Part of the price of heated grips on the GS is new bars that have special machining to allow the heated grips to fit. I imagine it will be difficult to put heated grips on non heated grip bars. I haven't tried however. Good sense tells me if you want different bars they won't have heated grips. Removal of the heated grips should be straight forward if you want to do this. They plug in the relay box located below the starter relay which is directly in front of the battery. You will need to get the wires out of the plug so you can pull the wires out of the center of the handlebars. You will also need a stock throttle ass'y as the heated grip on the right side is part of the throttle assy. If you need one of these I have them. They are scrap and normally get tossed when putting on heated grips. Let me know and I'll send you one. I hope this helps. Stuportech.
• Heated Grip Kit. Just hoping your kit came with new (different) bars. When the dealer installed the h. grips on my '01 GS before delivery, they handed me the stock bars and said the grips required a change. When I had the dealer install factory heated grips on my GS in July, when I picked it up, they gave me the bars that came with the bike. Only explanation was "to add heated grips to a stock GS they needed to change the bars". Never did find out why; didn't care as long as there was n/c. Some help I am and I still have them, somewhere, and no guys they won't fit on a '97!! Art884.
• Yes it came with bars. It's an easy install compared to a K1200RS heated kit. VV 710.

Q. Does ST With Handguards work.?

• Not really. Probably need to switch to the Funduro bars, they are higher and wider. The guards on my '99 just barely clear the stock windshield. The Funduro bars with heated grips make this a really nice bike. Mike s.#410
• ST with handguards? I have an ST with the BMW handguards. I also have a windshield. The previous owner modified the windshield by cutting semicircular portions out of each side right where the handguards would hit. Works well, was neatly done and allows me to lock the bars. I like the handguards, even if it is a "street" bike. I don't have heated grips and those guards really knock a lot of wind-chill and rain off my hands. Raleigh
• ST with handguards? I had the same problem. I had to switch to the "touring handlebar" which is a bit wider. Of course they don't mention it when you buy the handguards. You have to buy what they call "the touring kit" (Tall windshield, wider handlebars and handguards). Mr. Martin.

Q. Hand Protectors - Tightening: Over the weekend I purchased the BMW hand protectors for my GS. They were a snap to install but I'm a little concerned w/ the right hand grip. My tendency is to tighten it down so that it's snug. This causes the throttle to lock down completely so I've had to loosen it considerably to keep movement / recoil in the throttle. This causes 2 problems. 1. The right side hand protector is not as stable as the left one that is tightly fastened to the bike. 2. I'm paranoid that having the bolt anything but snug will cause it to eventually rattle loose and cause the bolt, weight, and connector to fall off the bike while riding. I remember reading a while back about some tips for securing this properly while allowing full throttle motion. Any advice will help. Besides this problem my hands are considerably warmer on that windy stretch along 101 by 3Com. Adding the handlebar weights makes a huge difference in reducing vibration on the handlebars.

• I had the problem on my 2001 GS. My dealer put a shim between the throttle handle and the boxy thing on the handlebars (that's a technical term) and it cured the problem. Dan#823.
• Had the same problem installing GS guards on my classic. The bar end weight was crushing against the grip and in turn against the kill switch housing when the bolt was tight freezing the throttle. Simply, I removed the bolt and added some small metal washers so that there was a space between the grip and the weight. Solved the problem. Art #884.

ProTaper

• Handgrips/Handguard Question. Hi Folks, this might be a dumb question but here goes anyway (I'm sure you'll be gentle with me). I've got some new ProTaper bars ready to put on with all the clamp stuff too, and I also got some of those aluminium handguards with clamp on to the bars and slot in the end. I was trying them out yesterday just to see how they go on, and I thought I'd try to put them on with the Scott grips I also got. Well I had to bore a hole in the side of the grips to accommodate the handguard insert, but of course, when everything was in place, the throttle side-grip would just not turn..... the grip was clamped tightly in place by the handguard. So my question is this: do I have to slice off part of the grip, or should the handguards not be flush with the handlebars, so that the grip/throttle mechanism can rotate? Thanks for any help, I think my current idea is to take a knife to the grip and dig out as much as isn't necessary to get proper rotation. Adam #906 (NC).
• Sounds like you got it figured right Adam. Typically need to trim the grip so that it does not contact or restricted in anyway by the handguard. A little lube in the throttle tube helps too! Mike #976 in Reno.
• Well, folks. I finally got the things on today before the Thunderstorms came. They're top stuff. Now though I have a problem. I bought some aluminium brushguards and deflectors to fit onto the bars. They look great, but the only problem is the things won't fit, the handguard on the right side has no chance of attaching due to the HUGE front brake reservoir. So my question is this: is there a way to get the things on? Or do I have to buy a different type - and does anyone have any recommendations? Hmm. So is this right then. To fit handguards to my ProTaper handlebars, I'll need to get the Acerbis Rally Brush Guards, or Rally Pro guards, plus a mounting kit which mounts them to the bars (avoiding the brake reservoir I suppose?). The former from Acerbis, and the latter from Touratech? Adam #906 (NC).

Renthal

• A new Renthal handlebar was delivered to my house today. I started disassembling and was fretting over what to do with the heated grips. I did not want to lose them since I ride all through the winter and it made such a difference over not having them. After tracing the wire and removing the clip (I found a nice bit from the Dremel tool that released the wires from the clip) and threading the wires out of the stock handlebars I discovered that I may be able to use these with my new bar after all. On the heated grips the wire went from the outside end and into the specially machined stock bar and then out a hole in the bottom middle of the bar snaking around and down into the wiring harness next to the battery. Well, there I found an extra few inches of slack zip tied together. My plan is to instead of running the wire through the new bars (there is no way to do this without damaging the structure of the bar) is to bring the wire on the inside of the new handguards, then follow the outside of the bar and down to the connecting point. I should have enough wire with the slack found and since the wires go into the grips from the outside edge there should be no problem. A little extra electrical tape at that point to limit movement and provide some insulation and I will have warm hands and a nice new strong handlebar. Sean-STL - GS.
• After suffering two slow-speed falls last year on my Dakar (Both off-road) the stock bars were quite bent on the left side. So I decided to replace them with Renthal bars (7/8" not fat bars) and Acerbis rally pro hand guards. The stock grips and heated grips will work but with some modifications. The wires will need to be routed on the outside of the bars and connected to the front of the grip instead of the outside. This is similar to the classic F heated grip set up. You will need to peel back the grip to expose the wire element, snip off the wire leads and solder that end closed and then cut the loop at the inside portion and solder the wire leads to that end. Not all that elegant but allows you to keep the heated grips if you go to after-market bars. Adrian#668.
• I wouldn't modify the bars though for heated grips as it weakens the metal. davidhpark, #711
   

Touratech

• The wiring for the grips on the GS go inboard. The bar ends are closed anyway. The stock or Touratech guards just use a through bolt into a threaded piece in the bars. The other end of the Touratech guards uses a clamp you spread over the bars. No interference whatever. MikeB#819.
• There seemed to be some question a while back as to whether or not you can run Heated Grips and Touratech handguards on the F650GS or Dakar. The answer is a definite YES. Did it yesterday. This was using stock BMW bars for heated grips. This bike had heat grips, stock bars, Touratech hand protectors, Touratech bar risers. No ABS. As far as I know ABS is only an issue with bar risers. I have not done bar risers with ABS. Stuportech.
• I have the Touratechs on the classic with heated grips. You need to make an extension off the bars at the inboard end to make them fit. The wires all go inboard too. Andy Leeds UK #982
• Bar End Weight Bolts: According to the parts diagram, stock is M6 X 60. So maybe I used an 80mm. 6mm is usually 1.0 pitch. Metric tap says M6 x 1. Don't buy stainless. You want strong bolts in there. So get 2 M6 X 70mm, 1.0 pitch hex cap screws. 10mm extra will be enough.
• Touratech supplies adds a short spacer that fits between the handguard and the clamp (on the inside) which allows the guards to be mounted further out on the bars. You may have to rotate the brake line fitting to allow the handguard to pass under it. I have the Touratech ones fitted with heated grips (which are about 10mm longer than non heated grips) and a Throttlemeister (which are 10mm - 15mm shorter than the stock weights) throttle lock. The combination just fits, heated grips and stock weights may be too long too work. Peter Jensen #233 97ST VT USA.
• What I did was to get the longer bolt. So the guard mounts between the grip and the long bar weight. Later today I am going to see if I can extend the guards and have the mount out to the end of the bar end weight. #F6501085 Nick Glenwood NJ USA.